I've shelved the two display modules for a later date. Their structures aren't quite as sturdy as I had hoped, although they will be great platforms in the future. Instead, I have jumped ahead to creating a train layout using modules. My first project is going to be the town of Mystic.
Mystic was a small town that can fit, almost foot by foot, in 12 feet using HO (1:87) scale.
Module 1 will start at the furthest western track of the RCBHW at the West end of Mystic (background in the photo above). This module will include the 65 foot turntable, the 3 track yard ladder, and a couple of outbuildings as well as the terrain. When operating, the "front" side of the modules will be the South side of the track.
Judging by the photos, code 55 or code 70 rail will be used to represent track. Except for turnouts, I will be hand laying track. Turnouts will be as long as possible, but probably will end up being #6 or #8 size frogs.
So far, here is my progress:
The 3/4 inch plywood sheet is being used as a massive weight and clamp to ensure the foam cures at the same level as the end plates. The foam insulation board is adhered together using canned expanding foam. Like gorilla glue, the foam requires clamping to prevent expansion.
The smallest of the three sidings in the yard will need to hold 10 cars. Originally I had planned to have 36inch long modules, but expansion was necessary for the longer turnouts, so each module was increased to 48 inches in length. One module can hold 7 freight cars that are 40 scale feet in length. There were few 50' cars on the line in the 1920's, so I'm not measuring on the 50' standard. For 1950's - 1970's era railroads, the 50' standard is a better measuring device. 60' is good for modern lines.
The frame of the module is very simple. I came up with this design after several attempts in the past to make a module. Two 1x2 high quality pine boards are screwed together with their grains at opposing angles, which minimize the forces. For extra strength, glue can be used as well. These frames, each 46.5 inches long, are screwed to the 6 inch by 18 inch end plates through a countersunk hole. This hole prevents the screw heads from getting in the way. The end plates are made of 3/4 inch plywood. This is of the utmost importance because the end plates CANNOT warp or twist even slightly. That said, one end plate has a slight warp in it, but the small warp can be worked around.
At 1 3/4 inches, the pine frames leave 4 1/4 inches for the foam to fill. 1 3/4 inch foam board, stacked 3 layers high, fills the gap perfectly. Gaps in the foam will be filled with canned expanding foam and then will be formed and sealed to create the sub-terrain layer. The foam adds strength to the module while minimizing weight.
LESSONS LEARNED:
Forever thedumb-ass student, I'm on the lookout for take lessons away from this project which improve my model railroad skill set. My only mistake thus far is that I didn't cut the two frames perfectly square at 46.5 inches in length. In the future I will be using a miter saw and a miter guide rather than relying on the more bulky circular saw. The ends of the frames, not being perfectly square, has created a very slight warp in the end plate and adjacent modules won't line up perfectly square. However, the angle is so slight it isn't noticeable. So long as the track joints allow freight cars to pass freely between modules, the construction is good enough.
Thanks for stopping in!
--James Willmus
 |
| Photo by Otto Perry of Rapid City Black Hills and Western Engine #55 at the town of Mystic. Photo can be found at Denver Public Library Digital Collections |
Module 1 will start at the furthest western track of the RCBHW at the West end of Mystic (background in the photo above). This module will include the 65 foot turntable, the 3 track yard ladder, and a couple of outbuildings as well as the terrain. When operating, the "front" side of the modules will be the South side of the track.
Judging by the photos, code 55 or code 70 rail will be used to represent track. Except for turnouts, I will be hand laying track. Turnouts will be as long as possible, but probably will end up being #6 or #8 size frogs.
So far, here is my progress:
 |
| James Willmus |
 |
| James Willmus |
 |
| James Willmus |
The frame of the module is very simple. I came up with this design after several attempts in the past to make a module. Two 1x2 high quality pine boards are screwed together with their grains at opposing angles, which minimize the forces. For extra strength, glue can be used as well. These frames, each 46.5 inches long, are screwed to the 6 inch by 18 inch end plates through a countersunk hole. This hole prevents the screw heads from getting in the way. The end plates are made of 3/4 inch plywood. This is of the utmost importance because the end plates CANNOT warp or twist even slightly. That said, one end plate has a slight warp in it, but the small warp can be worked around.
At 1 3/4 inches, the pine frames leave 4 1/4 inches for the foam to fill. 1 3/4 inch foam board, stacked 3 layers high, fills the gap perfectly. Gaps in the foam will be filled with canned expanding foam and then will be formed and sealed to create the sub-terrain layer. The foam adds strength to the module while minimizing weight.
LESSONS LEARNED:
Forever the
Thanks for stopping in!
--James Willmus
Comments
Post a Comment